Lon Haldeman and his wife Susan Notorangelo are cross-country cycling record holders and owners of PAC Tour, which provides guided cycling tours. Lon has cycled Route 66 many times, and gave Michelle maps and guidance before she left Chicago. We asked Lon what it is like to cycle through the part of New Mexico where Michelle has been this past week. Here’s what he had to say.
Tucumcari
West of Tucumcari Old Route 66 is patched together with sections of frontage road and interstate. The chip seal pavement in rough and low areas of the road typically flood during mild rains. The towns of Palomas, Montoya, Newkirk and Cuervo remind travelers of what life was like before the interstate passed them by. The “Old Cuervo Cut-Off” angles southwest 15 miles toward Santa Rosa. This is a classic forgotten section of Route 66 suitable for a mountain bike and should not be driven with the family car. Washouts and potholes provide many obstacles.
Santa Rosa
Santa Rosa is a welcome sight after 55 miles of desolation. This town is being revitalized with several state or national grants to fix the roads in the downtown area. Route 66 begins to climb leaving Santa Rosa. The old road is buried under the interstate. On a bike this section is slow. Between the hills and the headwind there is plenty of time to look at the roadside trash on the interstate. The groan of passing trucks going your way contrasts with the quiet coasting of trucks coming toward you. You know you are climbing when the trucks are working up the grade.
Clines Corners
Near the summit, the crossroad gas station of Clines Corners has been a landmark for over 80 years. Here you can buy everything from rubber tomahawks to rattlesnake eggs. The weather here is usually worse than anywhere else for the next 200 miles. It can snow here from September to June. The good thing is Route 66 begins to drop into the valley near Moriarty.
Albuquerque
Nearing Albuquerque Sandia Peak stands 10,678 feet tall. The frontage road begins again and descends 15 miles through a canyon into downtown. Old 66 is Central Avenue going across the city. Albuquerque claims “America’s Longest Main Street” with more than 17 miles and 60 traffic lights to cross.
Climbing west of the Rio Grande is the dreaded “Nine Mile Hill” out of the valley. The terrain changes from the hustle and bustle of the big city to the desolate landscape of rural New Mexico. Big rolling grades of three and four miles continue into the distance. The cliffs here are beautiful red rock.
Mesita
Near the town of Mesita Route 66 begins the best 35 miles of the whole tour. The old road leaves the noise of the interstate and winds around mesas and plateaus. Landmarks such as Owl Rock and Old Laguna Pueblo are worthwhile photo stops. A few miles later Route 66 splits again with an option to take the original trail, which is basically a one-lane road. This is a perfect cycling road because few vehicles beside those driven by local ranchers ever go this way.
Grants
After traveling 80 miles from Albuquerque, Route 66 arrives in the medium-size town of Grants. Mt. Taylor looms 11,000 feet tall to the north of town.
The next 40 miles gradually climb the shallow slope of the Continental Divide. From a cycling standpoint the wind is more of a factor than the grade or elevation. Route 66 follows the north frontage road here out of sight of the interstate most of the time. The Continental Divide summit is 7,275 feet. The 12-mile downhill combines with the interstate. Unfortunately, the shoulder of the big highway is not good for cycling here. The final 14 miles into the town of Gallup are back on Old 66 again.
Gallup
Gallup is a classic town with more to offer than Grants. The El Rancho Hotel is the best place to stay in town. All the rooms are named after '30s, '40s, and '50s movie stars who stayed there while making Western films in the area.
The final miles of New Mexico are on the old highway. Route 66 bends and crosses the interstate several times in the next 25 miles. The cliffs and scenery again make this a great bike riding area. You will not see another traffic light for another 100 miles until Holbrook, AZ. The varied terrain in New Mexico and Arizona make this area some of the most scenic of all Route 66.
--Lon Haldeman, PAC Tour
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